The City of Bristol's Garden Vineyards: Grape-Treading Grapes in Urban Spaces
Every quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel railway carriage arrives at a graffiti-covered stop. Close by, a police siren cuts through the near-constant traffic drone. Commuters hurry past falling apart, ivy-draped garden fences as rain clouds gather.
It is maybe the least likely spot you anticipate to find a perfectly formed grape-growing plot. However James Bayliss-Smith has managed to 40 mature vines sagging with plump purplish berries on a rambling garden plot sandwiched between a line of 1930s houses and a local rail line just north of Bristol downtown.
"I've noticed individuals concealing heroin or whatever in the shrubbery," says Bayliss-Smith. "But you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your vines."
Bayliss-Smith, 46, a documentary cameraman who runs a kombucha drinks business, is among several local vintner. He has organized a loose collective of growers who make vintage from four discreet city grape gardens tucked away in private yards and allotments throughout the city. The project is too clandestine to have an official name so far, but the group's messaging chat is called Vineyard Dreams.
Urban Wine Gardens Around the World
To date, the grower's allotment is the only one registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming world atlas, which includes more famous urban wineries such as the 1,800 plants on the hillsides of Paris's renowned Montmartre neighbourhood and more than 3,000 grapevines with views of and inside Turin. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the vanguard of a movement re-establishing urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing nations, but has identified them throughout the world, including cities in Japan, Bangladesh and Central Asia.
"Vineyards assist urban areas remain greener and ecologically varied. These spaces preserve open space from development by creating permanent, productive farming plots within cities," explains the association's president.
Like all wines, those produced in cities are a result of the soils the vines thrive in, the unpredictability of the climate and the individuals who care for the grapes. "Each vintage embodies the charm, local spirit, landscape and heritage of a urban center," adds the president.
Unknown Polish Grapes
Returning to the city, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to harvest the vines he grew from a cutting abandoned in his garden by a Eastern European household. If the rain arrives, then the pigeons may take advantage to feast again. "Here we have the enigmatic Polish variety," he says, as he cleans damaged and mouldy grapes from the shimmering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they are certainly disease-resistant. Unlike noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and additional renowned French grapes – you need not spray them with pesticides ... this could be a unique cultivar that was developed by the Soviets."
Group Efforts Throughout the City
Additional participants of the collective are also making the most of bright periods between showers of autumn rain. At a rooftop garden with views of the city's shimmering harbour, where historic trading ships once bobbed with barrels of vintage from France and Spain, Katy Grant is collecting her rondo grapes from approximately 50 plants. "I adore the smell of these vines. The scent is so evocative," she remarks, stopping with a container of fruit resting on her arm. "It's the scent of Provence when you open the car windows on holiday."
Grant, fifty-two, who has spent over two decades working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, inadvertently took over the grape garden when she returned to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her household in 2018. She felt an strong responsibility to look after the grapevines in the yard of their new home. "This plot has already endured three different owners," she says. "I deeply appreciate the idea of natural stewardship – of passing this on to future caretakers so they can keep cultivating from this land."
Sloping Vineyards and Natural Winemaking
Nearby, the final two members of the collective are busily laboring on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has cultivated over one hundred fifty plants situated on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the muddy River Avon. "People are always surprised," she notes, indicating the tangled grape garden. "They can't believe they are viewing rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."
Currently, the filmmaker, 60, is harvesting bunches of dusty purple Rondo grapes from rows of plants arranged along the cliff-side with the assistance of her daughter, her family member. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on streaming service's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's gardening shows, was motivated to cultivate vines after observing her neighbor's grapevines. She's discovered that amateurs can produce intriguing, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can command prices of more than seven pounds a serving in the growing number of wine bars specialising in minimal-intervention wines. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can actually create good, traditional vintage," she states. "It is quite on trend, but really it's resurrecting an old way of producing vintage."
"During foot-stomping the fruit, the various natural microorganisms are released from the surfaces and enter the juice," says the winemaker, ankle deep in a container of tiny stems, pips and red liquid. "This represents how wines were historically produced, but industrial wineries introduce preservatives to eliminate the natural cultures and subsequently add a commercially produced culture."
Challenging Conditions and Inventive Solutions
A few doors down sprightly retiree another cultivator, who inspired his neighbor to plant her vines, has gathered his companions to harvest white wine varieties from one hundred plants he has laid out neatly across two terraces. Reeve, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who worked at the local university developed a passion for viticulture on annual sporting trips to Europe. However it is a difficult task to grow Chardonnay grapes in the dampness of the valley, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers," admits the retiree with amusement. "This variety is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to mildew."
"I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is rather ambitious"
The temperamental Bristol climate is not the only problem faced by grape cultivators. The gardener has been compelled to install a fence on